Italian designer Marco Panconesi is one of the pioneers of the art of jewelry, which has been filtered through the minds of designers throughout history and has transformed into extraordinary works by going beyond traditional forms over time.

Born in 1989 in Florence, Italy, a city famous for its cultural and historical texture, Marco grew up in a family with a passion for travel and exploration. This environment allowed him to be immersed in classical Latin and Greek at an early age, shaping his dream of becoming an archaeologist and deepening his interest in design. Florence’s ancient history and the fact that it was home to radical design movements were among the main factors that shaped Panconesi’s aesthetic perspective and creative
vision. His family is full of craftspeople, including his grandfather, who was a carpenter. They taught him to have a deep respect for materials. His cousin introduced him to art techniques such as gold leaf and wax sculpture.
In 2011, Panconesi stepped into his career by receiving his fashion design diploma from Polimoda and started his professional journey by working in Givenchy’s accessories studio. He then made a name for himself designing jewelry and leather goods at Balenciaga. Since 2016, Marco has been recognized as an independent designer, collaborating with prestigious brands such as Mulberry, Mugler, Peter Pilotto, Fenty and GmbH.

In Panconesi’s jewelry designs, simple aesthetics and complex architectural structures coexist. The jewelry’s simple shapes — circles and spirals — are actually a reflection of a deep, thoughtful design process. Every piece is made using natural components like gold, silver, pearls, stones, crystals and enamels. Each piece changes and takes on a new form, moving with the body. Panconesi masterfully fuses this dynamic and ever-evolving understanding of form with his deep passion for ancient techniques, reinterpreting classical methods like ‘en tremblant’ with a fresh, modern flair. This 18th- and 19th-century technique mounts diamonds in an arc with thin metal wires, allowing the stones to catch light from different angles.

In 2018, Marco set out on his own path by founding the PANCONESI brand in Paris, aiming to create a lifestyle rather than a jewelry brand. “My desire to start my own brand was born out of the desire to pursue ideas that could become a whole universe,” he says, aiming to build a unique story and aesthetic in each piece.

The PANCONESI brand presents a line of jewelry born from the fusion of tradition and innovation, art and fashion, heritage and radicalism. With a deep respect for Italian traditional high jewelry, Panconesi treats his designs as precious objects; each piece is like a small sculpture that gives movement to the body. With the combination of earth tones inspired by nature, forgotten forms in stones and modern alchemy, myths from the past are brought to the present.

Appointed in 2019 as FENDI’s Jewelry Design Director, Marco Panconesi still follows a tradition of collaborative design. In 2021, under the creative direction of Giovanna Engelbert as Swarovski’s Design Director, the designer breaks the mold with his innovative and bold vision.