Roman jeweller Bulgari has launched a new collection of gold jewellery, Cabochon, inspired by its most iconic gemstone cut and by its time-honoured goldsmithing history.

When Sotirio Bulgari founded his eponymous jewellery house in Rome in 1884, it was to showcase his exquisite metalworking skills. His silver work, in particular, gained Bulgari a reputation for exceptional craftsmanship. Later, Bulgari’s early, and successful, high jewellery creations led to an expansion into what became the house’s iconic Serpenti collection in the 1940s, all crafted from coils of sinuous yellow gold. Now, eight decades later, Bulgari is returning to its metalworking origins for the inspiration for a brand new collection of gold jewellery, called Cabochon.

Cabochon’s new sculptural rings and pendants take their cue from the polished curves of cabochon cut gemstones, which have been a Bulgari signature since the 1950s. Resembling a half sphere or oval, the sensuous arch of a cabochon is also a nod to the famous domes that litter the Roman skyline, such as the Pantheon, St. Peter’s Basilica (designed by Michaelangelo himself), the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore and the Church of Santa Maria di Loreto.

The same cut can be used to enhance the sheen and beauty of a range of colourful gemstones, such as the emeralds, rubies and sapphires for which Bulgari is renowned. Its lustrous polished finish also brings out the star-like asterism in sapphires, and emphasises the natural colour and irridescence of other stones such as opals and emeralds, which can be fragile if cut in more elaborate ways. Many of Bulgari’s most famous jewels have been cabochons – Elizabeth Taylor, for example, was gifted a spectacular 50-carat cabochon sapphire and diamond sautoir by her lover (and twice husband) Richard Burton.