Emily in Paris has always been as much about the fashion as the romance, but with the release of Season 5 on December 18, 2025, the show’s aesthetic has undergone its most significant transformation yet. As Emily Cooper (Lily Collins) trades the rainy gray roofs of Paris for the sun-drenched piazzas of Rome to head Agence Grateau’s new Italian office, the jewelry box has traveled with her—and it’s heavier, bolder, and more dazzling than ever.

Costume designer Marylin Fitoussi has embraced the “La Dolce Vita” energy of the Italian capital, shifting from French chic to Roman glamour. Here is a deep dive into the jewels that defined Season 5.

In previous seasons, Emily’s style was defined by eclectic layering and “more is more” chaos. Season 5 introduces a refined maturity. The move to Rome inspired Fitoussi to channel Italian cinema icons like Sophia Loren and Claudia Cardinale.,

The jewelry reflects this shift: the pieces are statelier and more cohesive. The color palette has warmed up, moving away from the cool monochromatic tones of Paris to the vibrant golds, greens (malachite), and bold diamonds that shimmer against the Roman sun.

While big names like Cartier and Tiffany & Co. remain in the orbit, Season 5 shines a spotlight on independent and Italian heritage brands that capture the spirit of the Mediterranean.

• SICIS Jewels: In a nod to Italian craftsmanship, Emily pairs a Mary Katrantzou dress with SICIS Green Diamond Hoop Earrings and an open necklace. The micro-mosaic technique often used by SICIS perfectly mirrors the artistic history of Rome.
• Aurélie Bidermann: Keeping a touch of French flair, Emily wears Aurélie Bidermann malachite drop earrings. The deep green stone is a recurring motif this season, symbolizing growth and the lush Roman gardens.
• Ridhi Asrani: For the “Roman Holiday” polka-dot look (a custom Stine Goya set), Emily wears Ridhi Asrani gold and pearl hoop earrings, blending vintage 1950s shapes with modern textures.

Emily Cooper: The “Bob” Era Emily’s dramatic new short haircut was a game-changer for the jewelry department. With her neck and ears exposed, earrings became the focal point. The styling moved away from clunky necklaces to statement earrings—ear cuffs, sculptural hoops, and dangling gemstones that move as she navigates the cobblestones on a Vespa.

Sylvie Grateau: The Roman Matriarch Sylvie (Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu) thrives in Rome. Her wardrobe shifts from the sharp, restrictive silhouettes of Paris to fluid, sensual Italian tailoring. Her jewelry follows suit: she wears bold Pomellato pieces and chunky gold cuffs that scream power and liberation. She is no longer just the “French boss”; she is an international icon.

Mindy Chen: High-Low Mastery Mindy (Ashley Park) continues to be the wildcard. Even as her music career takes off, her jewelry remains a chaotic, joyful mix of plastic pop accessories and genuine diamonds, reflecting her journey from street busker to star.