Under the creative guidance of Anthony Vaccarello, Saint Laurent is bringing Art Deco to its Women’s Winter 2022 collection. It’s influence takes over as an outline rather than a direct quotation. Taking inspiration from Nancy Cunard’s one-of-a-kind masculine wardrobe, Vaccarello embeds her dress and activist philosophies into the current fashion climate. 

By taking signature pieces from the house and morphing their structures, Vaccarello reimagines Yves Saint Laurent’s classic looks in a truly Art Deco way. Using tension as inspiration, Vaccarello reinvents outerwear with denser fabrics, and adds delicate dress underneath these heavy garments to achieve the look. These clashing weights and fabrics fit into the Cunard inspired theme of the dichotomy between masculine and feminine dress. Stacked silver, gold, and bronze bracelets are a nod to the old money glamor of the Art Deco scene, while strong sloped shoulder detailings on coats and tops give a more modern look. 

Vaccarello hit that point of maturity with this show. In his own accent, with his own taste. With, yes, maybe something of his Belgian-born sensibility coming through: vague echoes of that period of deconstructed minimalism, the monochrome colors, saving the air of being easy to wear, but then again, bringing it up to the level of the modern Parisian elegance that we all dream about.

hen the punctuation of something as simple as an ecru floor-length turtle neck T-shirt dress, worn with deep stacks of dark wood and silver bangles on each arm.