Chanel presented a new jewelry collectıon at the haute couture fall-wınter 2022/23 ın PFW
Chanel presents new jewelry collection in honor of the 90th anniversary of ‘Bijoux de Diamants’. It has been 90 years since Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel created her first and only high jewelry collection. To celebrate the anniversary, the fashion house unveiled a modern jewelry line called ‘1932’.
Coco Chanel said that she prefers non-standard jewelry to expensive ones. The designer considered that it is indecent to walk around with “millions of dollars around your neck just because you are rich.” In the 1920s, under the leadership of Chanel, jewelry became an art form. Exactly because of her hands the placers of long pearl necklaces worn over a little black dress, or the famous luxurious bracelets with a Maltese cross, came into fashion.
On November 5, 1932, in the midst of the Great Depression, Coco presented her first ‘Bijoux de Diamants’ high jewelry collection with 50 pieces in diamonds and platinum. The collection was filled with shapes of the sun, moon and five-pointed stars, and in those days it literally made a splash. Chanel was the pioneer of the idea of applying haute couture principles to jewelry, creating pieces unlike anything else that been produced. Gabrielle also “cancelled” the fasteners, because she could not stand them. Pablo Picasso, actress Gloria Swenson and stars of the Russian ballet visited the exhibition with the presented jewelry. And as Coco commented the event herself: ‘What could help better to forget about the Great Depression than the bright shine of diamonds!’
After 90 years, luxury brand decided to return to the theme of space-inspired jewelry. The new collection includes 81 items, 15 of which can be transformed into brooches and bracelets, decorate your hair with them, just like in the Coco original collection. Diamonds organically complement with opals, rubies, sapphires and tanzanites. The centerpiece of the collection became the diamonds and sapphire Allure Celeste necklace. Moreover, it also contains a direct reference to the heritage of Coco and her favorite number 5 – the weight of a sapphire is 55.55 carats.
Chanel creative director Virginie Viard opted for a low-key rendition of haute couture for the French fashion house’s fall-winter runway show, sending out a mix of long, full-skirted dresses and tweed ensembles with slightly relaxed fits.
The label took to a horse arena on the outskirts of Paris, building a set that played with optical effects, with geometric patterns running at a slant while large silver globes hung from the ceiling.
The show opened with a projection of Pharrell Williams playing a drum set, with grinding electronic music in the background. When the soundtrack suddenly switching to soothing vocals, out came a wavy-haired model in a lime green skirt and jacket kicking off the fashion line-up. Others followed, zig-zagging across the floor, in beige, pale pinks, and all-black looks.