Unlike lapidarists, who cut and polish gemstones to bring out their brilliance, glyptic masters work with precious stones to create rare pieces of flora and fauna. Glyptic, the art of carving gemstones, is an ancient technique that plays a key role in Cartier’s aesthetic, especially in the iconic Panthère design. “Today, there are very few glypticiens in the world, and it is quite difficult to find young people who want to learn the craft,” says Alexa Abitbol, director of the Haute Joaillerie workshops.

In an effort to revive a vanishing art, Cartier created a glyptic department in 2010, headed by the now-retired Philippe Nicolas. Emilie Marquez is now the head of the jewelry brand’s glyptic department. She began her career at the age of seventeen as one of Nicholas’ pupils at École Boulle, a prestigious Parisian school of fine arts, crafts, and applied arts, and has since followed her career at Cartier. She is responsible for passing on her expertise to a team of eight people, four artisans and four pupils, all of whom are women.

It takes about four to five years to master this discipline, depending on the type of material you work with and the variety of projects. The magic of the glyptic art begins with the “stone” that inspires not only the design, but also the spirit of the piece. Marquez and her team source interesting raw materials from Tucson, Arizona (USA) and SainteMarie-aux-Mines, France, including fossilized pine cones, bones, wood, and light blue chalcedony stones. The artists analyze the materials and draw visions based on their structure. They then present it to the entire design team for approval, and given a shape in clay before the piece is carved and engraved. The glyptic art is guided by these mock-ups.

Jewelry making is a time-consuming process, but the unique stones that are handcrafted in the glyptic art are the ultimate expression of freedom. Stones add volume, dimension, and character to jewelry that gemstones and gold alone can’t achieve. This freedom of creativity attracts collectors who appreciate the artistry and individuality of the pieces, waiting up to a year to place an order. Panthère, a great example of a design made from petrified wood, which has hardened over millions of years to look like streaked rock. With its emerald eyes and bone color, this unique pendant is emblematic of the Art Deco style. In addition to the brand’s iconic designs, the craftsmen in Cartier’s glyptic department also pay attention to other aspects of nature, such as flowers and butterflies. They draw on Cartier’s vast archives and real plants for inspiration.