The first chapter is collectively named Vimini, with the new creations encompassing a necklace, bracelet, ring and two styles of earrings in 18ct yellow gold. Vimini translates as “wicker”, a nod to the woven construction that links rhomboid-shaped elements to create smooth, architectural surfaces of gold. Invisible flexible joints lend the pieces a beautiful suppleness. From above, they appear almost mechanical in their rhythmic modularity. From the side, the design softens, with faceted gold planes creating a subtle play of light and shadow.

This visual language is rooted in the original 1942 bracelet, conceived during the WWII years, when material scarcity demanded clarity and restraint. Its undulating, modular motif reflected the essential principles of Italian Rationalism, where form follows function, structure is made visible and geometry replaces ornament. Those same rationalist ideas are present in the Vimini jewels, refined through contemporary craftsmanship. The repetition is smoother and the workmanship is more fluid, yet the disciplined architecture of the original design remains intact.

The finer details point to Bvlgari’s ongoing experimentation with materials, including the introduction of Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC). Known for its exceptional hardness and resistance, the material takes on a new role in Bvlgari’s hands, transformed into a chromatic counterpoint rather than a purely technical one. In the Vimini High Jewellery creations, its velvety black sets up a graphic dialogue with yellow gold and carré-set diamond pavé, with the designs spanning chokers, classic necklaces and more avant-garde poncho-style necklaces.