A PURSUIT BEYOND SUCCESS AND TALENT: DANIEL ROSEBERRY, TRACING THE TRAILS OF SURREALISM
Daniel Roseberry: Until 2019, this name was synonymous with a typical “second fiddle” or the creative mastermind behind Thom Browne. Roseberry, leading a life of solitude and unemployment in his small, chilly studio in New York Chinatown, began to rewrite his story after an unexpected call from Schiaparelli, one of the iconic and unconventional fashion brands of the 20th century. Known as the first American designer appointed at the helm of a Haute Couture brand,
Daniel Roseberry has been successfully steering the creative direction of Schiaparelli for the past four years. This luxury French brand is experiencing a renaissance in its existence. Daniel Roseberry, creating successful looks for many global stars from Lady Gaga to Cardi B, Beyoncé to Doja Cat, was born in a small town in Texas, into a quite religious family. Growing up as the son of a preacher, Roseberry, a child who only encountered fashion through television and magazines, learned to paint and draw at a very young age from his mother. Since then, drawing has become his primary means of communicating with the outside world. At the age of 19, having undertaken missionary activities in Pakistan and Jordan, Roseberry decisively resolves to pursue his passion for fashion. He takes his final leave from home to study fashion at the Fashion Institute of Technology, arriving in New York with the hope of reinventing himself in a city where anything is possible.
However, like many influential figures in a hurry to succeed, he, too, departs from school prematurely and starts working alongside Thom Browne, known for his avant-garde design approach and at that time leading only a small design team. Roseberry, often expressing that he learned a lot from Browne, departs after eleven years to chart a new course for himself.
From that moment on, it was as if the stars, planets, and all cosmic elements were aligning to shape a new phase in his life. The unexpected phone call we mentioned earlier came from Maison Schiaparelli. In a short period, Daniel translated the combination of surrealism and avant-garde movements into contemporary fashion, designing a couture collection for Schiaparelli in just 33 days. The young designer ultimately managed to enter the same league as giants like Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Balmain, and Valentino—the very reason he embarked on his fashion journey. He achieves this by coming from an entirely different world, speaking a different language in the realm of high fashion.
When Elsa Schiaparelli founded her own fashion house in 1927, her vision was to create a new movement for women. Alongside her contemporary, Coco Chanel, the designer shaped the look of the modern woman of the time, also known for her boundless imagination. Collaborations with artists such as Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau, and Alberto Giacometti placed her in a special position in fashion history. Fashion ceased to be merely a craft and functional discipline; it transformed into an arena of art and performance. In the new era,we see that Roseberry shares the same vision—to liberate Haute Couture from its nostalgic identity and make it exciting once again. His modern creations often offer a realm of limitless fantasy—body corsets that we might find peculiar, glassless golden sunglasses, massive key and lock shaped jewelry, identical-looking animal heads, accessories shaped like surrealism’s iconic lips, golden masks, and countless other pieces that will captivate our attention as we navigate through Elsa Schiaparelli’s rich archive.
Daniel Roseberry’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection, presented at the recent Paris Fashion Week, was introduced by runway stars like Shalom Harlow, Kendall Jenner, and Irina Shayk. The designer described this collection as a “tribute to youth” and brought Schiaparelli’s accustomed artistic side to more relaxed and wearable silhouettes. Massive gold jewelry in the shape of marine creatures challenges the surrealistic concept inherent in Schiaparelli’s DNA with its exaggerated and extravagant forms. The collection features numerous references to Salvador Dali’s paintings and his collaboration with Elsa Schiaparelli.