The Art Deco era is notable for its profound and enduring influence on the cultural landscape. The period between 1908 and 1935 was characterized by a style revolution, marked by elevated social gatherings, resplendent cocktail parties, and audacious jewelry designs.The pursuit of beauty has had a profound influence on various domains of human endeavor, including but not limited to art, fashion, and architecture, as well as jewelry. This change has been shown to be of such profound significance that its effects are now permanent and irreversible.

The name Art Deco comes from the ‘Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes’, a major exhibition held in Paris in 1925, covering an area of about 60 acres. The event, organized by the French government, represented a synthesis of modernist approaches and traditional craftsmanship, incorporating luxury materials. The Art Deco movement, previously referred to as “Style Moderne”, made a significant debut on the global stage with this exhibition, providing the impetus for the creation of some of the most iconic jewelry designs in history.

Having its golden age in Paris in 1925, Art Deco is exactly 100 years old today. We want to celebrate this special period, which was all about modernism, trying new things and explosions of color. Emerging between the two world wars, this aesthetic is distinguished by its geometric lines, rich color combinations and stylized ornamentation. Within architectural design, this concept was manifested through sky spanning structures such as the Chrysler Building and the Empire State Building. Meanwhile, within the world of jewelry, it was reflected in bold forms and vibrant stones.

Art Deco jewelry was distinguished not only by its classical forms, but also by its exotic character, which emerged as designers drew inspiration from distant lands. Motifs from a variety of cultures, including ancient Egypt, Assyria, Persia, India, Japan, Greece and China, served as the foundation for the most innovative and meticulously crafted pieces of the period .

During the Art Deco period, a serious rivalry existed between the two major French jewelry houses, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. This rivalry gave birth to some of the most memorable designs in history. Cartier made a significant impact with its iconic “Tutti Frutti” collection, which was designed in the 1920s. Drawing inspiration from the expeditions of Jacques Cartier to India, these pieces were crafted with carved sapphires, emeralds, and rubies. This collection is widely regarded as a pivotal moment in the brand’s global ascendance, serving as a quintessential embodiment of timeless elegance.

In 1926, Van Cleef & Arpels took a bold step in their creative process by designing three bracelets. While diamonds dominated the high jewelry sector at the time, the brand innovated by utilizing hexagonal-cut peridot, citrine, and amethyst stones. The calibré cut tiny stones among these stones were lovingly crafted with a special technique that highlights their beautiful form and texture in the brand’s designs. And palladium coated gold was preferred to platinum in such jewelry. This was a significant detail, indicating that aesthetic design had surpassed the conventional classical luxury understanding of the era.

The stones were meticulously hand-cut using a Calibré-cut technique to conform to precise geometric forms, resulting in the creation of vibrant lines within the jewelry. Van Cleef & Arpels developed this method and introduced the ‘Mystery Setting’ technique. During the same period, diamond cutting techniques also underwent significant advancements. New forms such as triangles, trapezoids and half-moons emerged. Precious stones from India, such as turquoise, coral, lapis lazuli, and black onyx, were integral to the Art Deco style, which was characterized by its use of vibrant colors. Another symbol of Art Deco is undoubtedly Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s pearl necklaces.

Despite the passage of a century, interest in Art Deco jewelry remains undiminished. Especially signed pieces from big brands such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Boucheron fetch record prices at auctions. In 2019, at the ‘Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels’ auction in Geneva, Cartier’s 1927 sapphire and diamond bracelet sold for a record-breaking $6.1 million. In 2020, at a Sotheby’s auction held online due to the pandemic, the ‘Tutti Frutti’ bracelet sold for $1.34 million, another record in digital auction history.