Chanel took the latter approach, with a toned-down show full of slouchy, casual naturals with a formal twist. Sheer capes, tweed shorts, and fishnet knee socks collided in a collection born from inspiration by the 1961 film Last Year in Marienbad and the idea of freedom of movement.

White, beige, and black blanketed the collection through button-down tweed jackets, minidresses, and swingy short suits. “The films we have seen, those that possess us and those we invent for ourselves, Marienbad, the Nouvelle Vague, the allure according to Gabrielle Chanel, Karl, the night, feathers, sequins, heels: I like it when things get mixed up,” creative director Virginie Viard said in the show notes.

White and black colors painted the Chanel Spring/Summer 2023 collection through button-down tweed jackets and baggy shorts. In Viard’s imagined collage of glamor, the essence of Stewart’s style influenced the collection with pieces that are cool and edgy with lower-slung silhouettes. Viard’s modernity took a less formal approach to the Chanel look by incorporating mini handbags, wide-leg pants, and flats.