For centuries, the world of jewelry has stood at the crossroads of brilliance, luxury, and elegance. Yet behind this glittering façade, the mechanisms of power were, ironically, long dominated by men. Today, the tide is turning. At the helm of the most prestigious jewelry houses now sit visionary women who intuitively understand the soul of the women who wear these creations. Here are three remarkable figures shaping the creative direction of the world’s most renowned jewelry brands, and the distinctive universes they have built.

Claire Choisne- Creative Director, Boucheron

If the jewelry world has a “mad professor,” it is undoubtedly Claire Choisne. Since taking the creative helm at Boucheron, she has expanded the notion of high jewelry beyond aesthetics, introducing a distinctly scientific dimension. Choisne fuses the classical elegance of 19th-century Paris with the technologies of the 21st century. In her acclaimed Contemplation collection—often regarded as her masterpiece—she turned to aerogel, a material composed of 99.8% air and used by NASA to capture stardust in space.

By combining this substance with rock crystal, she created necklaces that feel as though one is wearing “a piece of the sky.” In Boucheron’s Holographique collection, she drew inspiration from the refraction of light, applying high temperature holographic coatings to metals and stones. The result: jewelry that shifts color with the viewer’s perspective, transforming into a futuristic rainbow. In Choisne’s vision, jewelry is not merely an investment locked away in a safe; it is wearable art and a technological challenge. While fiercely protecting Boucheron’s heritage, she is equally unafraid to propel it boldly into the future.

Lucia Silvestri-Creative Director and Director of Gemstone Purchasing, Bvlgari

To say that Lucia Silvestri understands the language of stones would be an understatement, she quite literally speaks with them. Joining Bvlgari at just 18 years old as a temporary job while studying biology,
Silvestri became the last “gem hunter” personally trained by the brand’s legendary founding family. She is the genius behind Bvlgari’s audacious, joyful color combinations, famed for selecting unexpected pairings from tables strewn with hundreds of emeralds, sapphires, and rubies.

For Lucia, design begins not with a sketch, but with the stone itself. For the Magnifica collection, she traveled the globe in search of the rarest Paraíba tourmalines and spinels. The emerald necklaces fronted by Zendaya in the campaign stand as a testament to her fearless approach to color. Created to celebrate the brand’s 140th anniversary, the Aeterna collection is an ode to the eternity of Rome. For this series, Silvestri employed diamonds exceeding 200 carats—stones that required months of meticulous craftsmanship, shaping them into modern, fluid forms. Capturing Rome’s sunsets and the blues of the Mediterranean in precious gems, she continues Bvlgari’s cabochon-cut tradition with a modern, feminine sensibility. As Silvestri herself says, “The stones whisper to me what they want to become.” Thanks to her, Bvlgari is more colorful, more Italian, and more passionate than ever.

Nathalie Verdeille- Chief Artistic Officer of Jewelry and High Jewelry, Tiffany & Co.

Following a distinguished career at Cartier, Nathalie Verdeille took on the role of Artistic Director at Tiffany & Co., bringing a refined European sensibility to the house’s vision of American luxury. Her task may be the most challenging of all: to reinterpret the archives of a legend like Jean Schlumberger, along with iconic designs such as Bird on a Rock,and transform them into objects of desire for Generation Z. What began as a simple brooch has since evolved into necklaces, watches, and even men’s jewelry, allowing Bird on a Rock to transcend gender boundaries and be reborn in countless forms as a truly universal jewel.
Verdeille reimagines the heritage contained within Tiffany’s famous blue box with restraint—never excessive, yet never dull. Rather than focusing on the sheer size of stones, she prioritizes poetic design, shaping Tiffany’s new golden age. In the Blue Book: Out of the Blue collection, she carried Jean Schlumberger’s fascination with the ocean into the present day. Jellyfish, corals, and sea urchins were transformed in her hands into geometric, modern, and sculptural forms. By pairing classic marine themes with inverted diamonds and unconventional stone settings, she elevated them to an avant-garde level.