Covering most of our planet, vast bodies of water have shaped cultures, trade routes, and civilizations throughout history. From endless seascapes to cascading waterfalls and remote oceans, water has once again emerged as a powerful creative source, inspiring some of this year’s most striking high jewelry collections.

Van Cleef & Arpels’ latest high jewelry collection“Treasure Island” was inspired by Robert Louis Stevenson’s adventure novel of the same name. One of the brand’s most joyful and playful collections in recent years, this series elegantly reinterprets pirate themes and stories of hidden treasures. These symbols, evoking childhood dreams, are transformed into a stylish and
sophisticated appearance through Van Cleef & Arpels’ signature elegance and craftsmanship.
The Coquillage Mystérieux brooch features a seashell silhouette, set with square cut rubies using the Mystery Set technique, accented by round and baguette-cut white and pink diamonds, features an elegant design in the shape of a seashell. On the back surface lies a captivating surprise referencing Van Cleef & Arpels’ classic ballerina and fairy motifs: a sea nymph sitting atop a cultured pearl, holding an emerald in her hands.

Water’s emotional resonance with designers is undeniable. One of the most poetic interpretations comes from Chinese born Spanish jewelry artist Wallis Hong, whose sculptural, dreamlike creations, though not always directly depicting the sea, capture the fluid essence of water. “Design should stir emotion and spark imagination,” he says. “Some may sense the inspiration of water, others may see traces of the sky or the universe.” Wallis Hong says she first drew inspiration for her ‘Thorn Shells’ earrings from the Spanish islands of Ibiza and Formentera, which she visited for the first time.

“There, I discovered natural shell forms on the shores and observed vibrant underwater ecosystems. This world teeming with diverse marine life deeply moved me.”

The universality of water and the meaning it carries have captivated not only Hong but also Boucheron’s creative director, Claire Choisne. Choisne drew inspiration from water’s countless forms while designing the “Or Bleu” high jewelry collection: cascading waterfalls, the circular ripples formed when a drop hits the surface, sea foam spreading across the sand, and the glass like transparency of icebergs

This 26-piece collection elegantly celebrates the poetic and timeless beauty of water. The shoulder brooch, called “Eau Vive” depicts Icelandic waves crashing against the body. Boucheron used
3D modeling software for its design to mimic the movement of water. Once the elegant form was defined, the structure was produced from a single piece of aluminum, chosen for its lightness. The diamonds were set directly into the aluminum. Given that aluminum is a much more challenging metal to work with than traditional gold, this represents a true feat of craftsmanship. The pieces were finished with a palladium coating to achieve a intense brilliance. The sea offers a fascinating contradiction, being both vast and powerful yet serene and unchanging.

These influences are clearly evident in the designs of Sicilian jewelry artist Massimo Izzo. Izzo’s jewelry reflects a distinctive Mediterranean luxury and hedonism. The realistic curves of sea creatures such as octopuses, seahorses, and starfish convey a vibrant and powerful aesthetic, as if they were about to burst to life

In Japan, which introduced the term “tsunami” to the world, the sea symbolizes a destructive force. Katsushika Hokusai’s “The Great Wave off Kanagawa,” one of the most famous works of Japanese art, inspired Simone Jewels’ latest collection, “Romance de l’art nouveau”. Blending Art Nouveau design aesthetics with Hokusai’s mastery, this collection celebrates the interaction between chaos
and tranquility. The diamonds set on waves rising from white gold look like water droplets gushing from a chalcedony base.